For very large venues such as arenas and larger, the oil will be much better at getting an even distribution of it throughout the venue, as the hang time is very long and also not prone to layering due to temperature differentials. Oil doesn't really leave all that much residue, though can build up if you're using it in the same venue day after day, but mostly will build up in lights or any equipment cooled by a fan as the fan will compress it out of the air, so will tend to pool in those cases.Īs for which is best, a lot depends on the venue. No matter what you'd still need a chiller. If it's a cheap one, likely it's going to just use a glycol or highly diluted glycerin type mixture.įor ground fog fluid, glycerin's a bad thing as leaves a long lasting haze, so typically will be propylene glycol / water as it's one of the shorter lasting fluids. So if it has a heater in it, or requires a warm up cycle then it's a good indication that it's a water based machine. They use so little of it that a bottle will last a very long time.īut most oil based hazers are oil crackers so they use compressed air rather than heat to produce the haze. Oil is one fluid you probably don't want to buy cheap, as there are lower grades out there that may not be safe to inhale, but generally speaking you can use cheaper american dj fluid in a df50 for example at half the price. Re oil based hazers, they use a particular grade of light mineral oil, but yes it's generally available quite cheaply, and on top of that they don't use much of it. And make sure you use food grade or better glycerin. One can find this out fairly easy by matching up the specific gravity. You just need to match the dilution, which ranges from 90% down to 20% depending on the machine. The glycerin type machines are very easy to make your own fluid for, with the name brands often marking up their fluids 10x or more the cost to produce it. But pretty much all the others use glycerin as various dilutions, aside from the fazer type low cost machines which will just use fog fluid. Particularly in larger venues.Įdit, just to add regarding haze machines, oil based of course use mineral oil. The formulation of the fluid makes probably the biggest difference overall to laser effects, I find in a lot of cases as much or more so than laser power. Some brands will add glycerin to propylene glycol in order to get a longer hang time out of it, but I find it still doesn't have great refraction properties. Avoid fogs that primarily use propylene glycol as the result tends to be a thick fog that doesn't reflect light well and a shorter hang time. A basic propylene glycol type fluid is probably good for this.įor a laser show type fog, best is a long hang time fluid, preferably using triethylene glycol or dipropylene glycol. With ground fogging, chilling the fog is what keeps it low, however after a short time it will warm up to ambient air temperature and start to rise into the air, so for a good chilled fog ground type effect, you want it to dissipate before the temp rises to ambient. In the end, any short hang time fog fluid will work well.
Always use a little smoke to test the effects first, and see where the winds are carrying it.
Fog juice diy free#
Feel free to use color gels to add even more drama to your shots. A dark environment with strong backlight on the subject. It will be gone in a second.įor my shoots so far, I had the best results with the smoke in a dark environment.
Fog juice diy portable#
You can use a reflector to somewhat control the smoke, or use multiple portable USB fans.
Predict the direction of the wind, you don’t want to blow smoke into your subject directly.The wind is your number one helper and enemy.So here are a few nuggets for “smoke photography”. Regardless of which method you use, you still need to control the smoke in one way or another for photography.
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